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Bare timber and joinery: Sealing raw softwood, hardwood, and MDF edges to prevent uneven suction and resin bleed-through.
Ferrous and non-ferrous metals: Protecting various metal surfaces from rust and oxidation before painting.
Stain and damage sealing: Blocking water stains, soot and nicotine from ruining fresh emulsion or gloss topcoats.
Difficult surfaces and tiles: Priming smooth melamine, glass, wall tiles, and uPVC trims to allow topcoat paint adhesion without flaking.
Start with the surface, then choose by material. Check whether the surface is bare or already painted.
Confirm whether the job is interior or exterior.
Weigh up the paint type. Water-based wood primer suits interior work and tighter schedules, while oil-based wood primer is often chosen where a longer drying time is acceptable.
Check the surface condition. MDF edges, knots and resin pockets may need a sealing primer, stain-blocking undercoat or wood primer sealer.
If the surface is old gloss or varnish, key it properly or use a bonding primer where needed so the new coat can grip.
Measure the area in m², then check the coverage rate on the product specifications.
Add for wastage and allow for a second coat where the substrate is bare or porous.
Check the drying time and recoat time on the tin so the project stays on track.
Confirm whether the product is intended for interior or exterior use.
Make sure the application suitability matches the surface you are painting over, whether that is metal, bare wood, old paint or varnish.
Clean the surface, sand where needed to key it, and remove dust before you start.
Compare wood undercoat paint by surface material, finish type and tin size, then choose the option that suits the job in hand. If you need a primer and undercoat look for a primer undercoat to do both jobs in one to save time. If you are covering a previously painted surface, a separate undercoat may be the better fit.